Istanbul

This is the most foreign city we’ve visited. As we drove towards the old city, minarets, shaped like modern rockets clutter the skyline, surrounding the numerous mosques like some defense system. We wake each morning at 5:30, by the wail of the male voices, telling us it is time to pray. This occurs 5 times a day, starting with our morning wake up call, and ending in the late evening. Each mosque has its own crier, their timing staggered with the other mosques close by so that all can be heard.

We are staying in our first hotel in a long time. It is such a luxury to have people to ask directions, suggestions, to make reservations, arrange for transportation. And, my parents are here! We explore Istanbul together. What an amazing city!

Where in the world are Ethan and Siena? This is a mileage marker. Istanbul was the center of the world for over 1600 years. This is a remnant of the Roman period here. When Constantine led the Roman Empire, he moved its capitol to Byzantium, present day Istanbul. This was a more strategic position, especially relative to the east. This marker is the zero mile post for the entire Roman Empire. All cities and distances were measured from here. The city was renamed Constantinople after Signore Constantine. The Romans were the first empire to call this city their capitol, but far from the last. Following the break up of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire was formed from the eastern half of the original Roman Empire. The Byzantines were, I believe, of Greek origin, and their empire extended across a wide swathe of Asia and Europe. The third empire to rule here were the Ottomans. When the Turks defeated the Byzantines in 1453 for control, they renamed the city Istanbul. So, present day Istanbul was the capitol of the largest empires of the world from about 88 AD until the 19th century.

Where in the world are Ethan and his grandfather Alan? They are cruising along the Bosphorus, a river connecting the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara. On the left of the river is Europe; the right bank is Asia. Istanbul sits at the cross roads between East and West, Europe and Asia, and, today, Islam and Christianity. It is the only city that spreads across two continents.

The city is also marked by decline. The Roman Empire’s collapse, the long, slow decline of the Byzantines, and the 300 year fall of the Ottomans all have left an ancient air of abandonment to this city. My favorite story involves a magnificent cistern, built in Byzantine times to provide water for the growing population. Apparently, after years of disuse, it was entirely forgotten, buried on debris. The people of Istanbul thought Allah had blessed their city as you could drop a bucket into any hole and pull out water. The cistern was only re-discovered about 20 years ago. There are over 300 columns, all stolen from other ruins.

The Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia are both staggering in their magnitude and decorations. We have a knowledgeable guide, willing to not only show us the sites, but also to discuss the history, the religion, the people of this city with us.

We are fortunate to be here for Ramazan (Ramadan, as we know it). The devout fast from sunrise to sunset, but the population is very tolerant, and restaurants are open and, if not teeming with people, at least not empty. Each evening, the city is filled with revelers. We are glad to not be fasting. The food here is excellent. We love the lamb, lemon, dill, baklava, grape leaves and wine. Not all in one dish, though. The Beattie Beer Index is high for taste, moderate for price. A half liter of excellent draft beer, Efes, is about $4. So, we say cheers in Turkish—

Sherefe!
The Beattie Clan