Sunday, November 2, 2008

Italy, Part II
























Where in the world are Ethan and Siena? This is a city, built basically on a river delta, that was filled over time. This is the main thoroughfare or “street” of this city, the Woodward Avenue, for those from Michigan. This is the city of Venice. There are as many different types of boats as vehicles on our roads. We liked watching the guy in a UPS boat unloading boxes. This one was my favorite. Can you make out the Italian writing? “Urgent Medical Supplies, temperature controlled”. And, what are the boxes filled with? Marlboro.

I understand this is a city that you either love or hate, and we all loved Venice. Yes, it smells a bit of decay and pigeon poop. Yes, it is crowded with tourists. But, it is just so different from everywhere else. For those who have never been here, there are no cars, no scooters, no bikes. You either walk or take a boat. The passages are so windy, and the walls on all sides obscure the horizon, that it is impossible to keep a sense of direction. Frequently, the alley way will end abruptly in a canal, making backtracking necessary. We spent most of our time here just wandering, or, as Ethan and Siena liked to call it, getting lost. Our hotel is right near the fish market. This has the most beautiful selection of fish we have seen on our trip, some so fresh they are still flopping or wriggling. We can’t understand, with all this water and fresh fish, why the fish in the restaurants is so expensive—twice as much as anything else on the menu.

This is a view of San Marco Square, Venice’s main piazza. We are on top of the bell tower, allowing us, despite the haze, to see the entire city. We stay up here until noon, to hear the bells clang so loudly we clap our hands over our ears.

One evening, instead of a sit down dinner, we participate in a Venice tradition—the “cicchetti”, the Italian equivalent of a pub crawl. We stop at several tiny bars, have a glass of the house wine or an aperitif, and a small appetizer—meatball, or potato croquette or bruschetta. Each item, including the drinks, cost 1 Euro. Luckily Ethan and Siena were there to lead us back to the hotel, otherwise we probably would have wandered endlessly or fallen into a canal.

The next day, we went to some of the neighboring islands, famous for their crafts, Murano for glass blowing and Burano for lace making. It is amazing how a piece of molten glass can become a horse before our eyes. The cemetery was interesting. Anyone have any idea why Igor Stravinsky and El Greco are buried here??? Neither is particularly Italian, no?

Tonight, we take the night train down to Napoli or Naples.

Salute!

The Beatties

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